I have had this gastropub on my radar for several years based on recommendations of local friends. I am so glad we finally made it. Sylvain sits in the heart of the French Quarter on Chartres Street. Located in a carriage house built in the 1700’s, the atmosphere feels a bit dark and stormy with gray walls adorned by framed pencil drawings, dark wood tables and flickering tea lights on the tables. A warning to those a bit older, bring your readers and your cell phone light to read the menu in the dim dining room. Aperitifs made the glaring knowledge of our age a bit easier. Dave had the Louis de Grenelle MV Saumur Corail Rosé which was 100% Cabernet Franc, providing the fruity bubbles with a hint of a green note as is often found in Cabernet Franc. I had a fancy Champagne cocktail with a sugar cube, lavender and a lemon twist.
We began with the Gulf Fish Crudo, which that evening featured a bright pink tuna sprinkled with fried peanuts that provided a touch of saltiness and crunch. This was topped with a beet sesame vinaigrette which had tiny, perfect cubes of deep red beet in a light vinaigrette with hints of sesame. It was served next to a seasonal vegetable salad of shaved carrots, micro-greens and radishes. It was a perfect, light starter to our meal. I chose the salad and entrée based on my preferred white wine by the glass selections. To pair with the Macon-Villages Chardonnay I chose the Brussels sprouts salad. Shaved Brussels sprouts were piled high and topped with finely grated grana padano which added some saltiness and creaminess. Hazelnuts added crunch and green apples provided the perfect acidic counterpart to the Chardonnay.
Next, we shared the Pan Fried Pork Shoulder. This dish took me to Germany with a southern twist. Tender pork medallions were set atop creamy grits and sidled up to braised greens that were mixed with a delicate mustard jus. The Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling that we paired with this dish was delicious with both the pork and the greens sautéed with mustard.
Perhaps the highlight of my night was the classic pairing of Sauternes and Blue Cheese for dessert. For some reason, this had escaped me up until this evening and I vow to revisit it soon. A perfectly soft square of salty and pungent blue cheese sat next to tiny toasts and alongside a dessert sized pour of Sauternes. The silky sweet Sauternes and the creamy salty blue cheese together were a match made in heaven. Next time you visit the Big Easy, do yourself a favor and make a reservation at this lovely little spot in the quarter.