I opened a bottle of Frappato this evening, hoping to tell you all about this little-known grape from Sicily and found that the one I had simply did not conform to the Frappatos that I had previously known.
The first time I had a Frappato, I was jazzed. It was a cool, new grape for me with a pretty, light ruby color and a fruity, approachable palate. The Tamí 2016 Frappato that I opened this evening was quite a bit different than what I had experienced previously.
Frappato is a grape native to Sicily, typically lighter in color and lower in alcohol and tannins than many well-known Italian grapes such as Sangiovese. Many of the more known reds in Italy can be described in what often connote “Old World” wines, with smells and flavors of things other than fruits dominating the senses. Tomato stem, leather, clay, and tobacco are often noted in these wines. “New World” wines from places such as California and Argentina are most often described first in terms of the fruitiness of the wines with cherries, plums, and currants dominating the senses.
That is one of the things that I found to be refreshing about Frappato the first time I tasted it. While produced in one of the oldest wine-producing regions on earth, it was a very fruit forward wine with cherries, strawberries and spice dominating the nose and palate. It was a light bodied wine that was approachable and one that could easily be sold once the name was familiarized, to customers who would normally choose a California Pinot Noir or perhaps a Beaujolais.
The Tamí Frappato was a very different bottle than I had experienced previously. This one opened with distinctly Old World scents of earthiness, funkiness and a bit of must along with a hint of Luxardo cherries and dried orange peels. On the palate, it did taste more of the fruits with cherries, and raspberries, but still having a bit of dried leaves for the Old World feel. The alcohol does conform to the Old World style, being a relatively low 12.5%. Initially, I perceived the tannins to be higher than most Frappatos I had in the past. However, after a bit of time, I felt that they mellowed out to be fairly manageable.
Overall, I love Frappato, and I think any wine lover should try to pick up a bottle. This one simply taught me that they are not all the same, and that I have many more to explore. Perhaps a trip to Sicily is in order!
Thanks to Rae Wilson of Wine For the People, who selected this wine for us as part of her wine club.