Facade photo courtesy of Italic
This is one of my happy places in Austin. Italic is owned and operated by the ELM group, who also own Irene’s, 24 Diner and Easy Tiger. Italic arrived less than a year prior to the closure of Arro, the French ELM concept that I still mourn to this day. The ELM group boasts some incredible talent, including their executive chef, Andrew Curren, Beverage Director, Craig Collins and his sommelier staff. Speaking of sommelier talent in Austin, this place has got it. At the helm is Master Sommelier and Italian wine expert, Craig Collins. His list is extensive, comprehensive, informative and playful. As an Italian myself, I find Italian wine to be intimidating at the restaurant, but they have broken their menu down into categories that ease nerves. If you like wine that would be familiar to a non-Italian expert, they have that. They also break it down into several regions, one being “Sicily Is Cool,” and the regional offerings come complete with a tiny menu map and some mildly hipster descriptions. They also have a section of bubbles which includes four French Champagnes because no self respecting fantastic wine list should do without. Notably, these are the only non-Italian offerings on the menu. Helping out Craig night after night are Service Director and Advanced Sommelier Mark Sayre, formerly of TRIO at the Four Seasons, and Beverage Manager and Certified Sommelier Ken Freeman. Any of these gentleman can expertly guide you through the extensive menu. Ken recently chose a 2015 Gradis’Ciutta (a Friulano based Italian white) after I balked at an initial $85 selection (as I was feeling frugal that evening) to pair with our half chicken, scallops, kale salad and butternut squash soup. Ken expertly pivoted on price once I made my preference known. Perfect on four pairing counts, which is no small feat, it showcased a nose and palate of peaches, green apples and almonds. It was simply lovely.
Now let me tell you about this chicken. I eat a lot of chicken as I generally choose poultry and fish and avoid all red meats. I’m a good cook, and I learned from an Italian Grandma…and this is the best damn chicken I’ve ever had. A half chicken is expertly broken down and very simply roasted and topped with an arugula pistachio pesto. Crispy skin, juicy meat, and a nutty, slightly bitter pesto combine to create bliss. I try to be self respecting and leave with at least one piece of the half chicken to either take home or offer to a less fortunate person on the way home. But, this requires great restraint as I want to eat the whole thing.
The food menu is not extensive, and as one who avoids gluten, I can’t really choose anything other than one of the three “secondi” dishes. I often can’t say no to the chicken option when the pizza and the pasta are not on my radar, but the scallops are expertly done and presented as well. I have however had the pizza (no pain, no gain) and it is ridiculously good as well. Thin crust that is crispy on the outside and a bit chewy beneath, their four choices please with fresh, simple ingredients. They have lovely Italian desserts and a selection of dessert wines that illustrate the talent of Italy in this area as well as Amari and Grappas.
What often gets me to Italic when not a special occasion is one if their approximately monthly FREE wine tastings in the café. Recently, they have hosted the winemaker for Vietti, a premier producer from the Piedmont region of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and my favorite, Arneis. Two weeks later, the commercial director for Felsina, a Tuscan producer of Sangiovese based wines, guided a tasting of their Tuscan gems. The tastings are often accompanied by a “pop up dinner” which pairs any number of courses with the producers’ wines. Typically, one can choose all of the courses with pairings or only the ones of their preference. A bonus of the tastings is that the Austin Wine Merchant will often offer the selections at a discounted price either by the bottle or case that can be ordered during the tasting. These tastings are a great opportunity to interact and learn from the sommelier staff, the distributor reps and producers.
